June 20 Drowning on the Land

It has been less than a week since I stepped of Rumline to attend to commitments and matters ashore. It has been a testing time and I arrived to an unexpected maelstrom of trouble requiring me to defend myself in a way no one should have to. All is well now but I am left sad, bruised and reeling. I need the sea air now more than ever and am counting the days till I can return to Rummy, the birds, the waves and wind.

June 12 Fairwinds to all who ply the Waves

There is sadness in dropping our lines in Tobermory and heading back to Oban.  It is there that I will have to say goodbye to a person who has been my mentor, safe-harbour and greatest of friends. When he steps off the boat the sea will be a bit saltier with the tears I am I certain to shed. The journey will continue and although different it is with enthusiasm that I look forward to the next stage. More exploration will resume in July.

Since we left Lymington early in May we have learned so much about our coast, its waters, the people who live here and about ourselves. It seems a lifetime lived in just a few weeks. The beauty of our Island has left us in awe and the richness of life that inhabits the shore and the water was a great surprise. We now feel a duty to cherish, protect and respect this great bounty that has been bestowed upon us. The variety of people and the diversity of culture from place to place makes this island a rich tapestry. The British are a generous people who in our expereince have been helpful, welcoming and warm. We have had to learn to live in small confines and sometimes difficult circumstances with grace and acceptance of eachother, and continue to work and laugh alongside one another. Rumline has brought out the best in us and we thank her for that.  I have learned to relaxed in this watery world and I have never been happier.

Rumline deserves recognition, she has been a steady reliable vessel with the ability to put huge smiles on our faces through the grace of her design and  sea-keeping abilities. I trust her implicitly and she forgives my mistakes. She has become more than a boat she is now a friend and my little safe world at sea.

Fair winds to you my friend and to all those who chose to go to sea.

June 11 Sea of Inspiration

We take to the water for different reasons, Some for ego and challenge, others for fun, some for work and wages, the broken for escape, some for the total focus the sea demands which provides a distraction from difficulty. Today I met a inspirational young man, Oliver Rofix. He was diagnosed with a rare leukemia. During his illness and with all his savings he bought a Valiant 18 and restored her to immaculate perfection. She and his love of sailing helped him during what must have been a challenging time. He is now sailing single-handed around Britain in order to raise awareness for the Anthony Nolan charity which helps with bone marrow donations for those in need. The sea helped Oliver and now he needs our help. If anyone cares to donate, or knows of sponsors his website is http://www.olivers-travels.co.uk/.

We set off after chatting with Olly to Tobermory.  We sailed out into the Firth of Lorne and torwards the Sound of Mull. Inspiring landscapes and water which Olly is able to enjoy in his beautiful little boat.

Entrance from Oban Bay into the Firth of Lorne

The Firth of Lorne

Views torwards the Morvern Penninsula

Wind and tide were against us and doubled our journey time but the sun was shining and the scenery beautiful so it mattered little. Tobermory was worth the time taken. It is a pretty town with brightly cottages lining a fishing harbour full of boats. It was a harbour planned and built by the British Fisheries Society in 1788. It has a cheerful feel to it. The harbour is well equipped for visiting yachts with moorings, good anchorage and walk-ashore pontoons. Plenty of restaurants and pubs line the harbour. A must visit Pub is the Mishnish. There is a distillery which can be visited but typical it is closed on Sunday so alas no visit for Rummy's thirsty crew.

Tobermory

Tobermory

The most we will see of the Distillery

June 9-10 Oban and Good-byes

It is always sad to say good-bye to people you share your little watery world with. Kay crew member extrodinaire; always cheery, helpful, uncomplaining, fun and a good sailor, stepped off Rumline in Oban to return to her real-life. She will be dearly missed and we were so lucky to have her join the fun.

Before we said good-bye we all finally made it to a distillery. We toured Oban distillery and learnt a great deal about the process involved in making what is considered the water of life. Taking a tour is highly recommended.
Exhausted a day of rest was needed. Rummy was given some attention and afterwards I walked up to the monument on Kerrera Island where the marina is based. It marks the achievement of a Mr McBrayne who established the ferries that ply the island and remove the islanders from isolation. So on narrow sheep-tracks I climbed past foxgloves, wildgarlic, butter-cups, fresh braken shoots, a hawk gliding ovehead and a gentle salted breeze. The view over the Firth of Lorne was breath-taking with a silver light breaking through the cloud creating liquid mercury streaks on the Firth.

The Firth of Lorne

Tomorrow to Tobermory in preparation for yet another good-bye.

June 8-9 Towards Oban on the Whiskey Tack

Leaving the Crinian Sea Lock

The Crinian Hotel overlooking Dorus Mor

Loch Crinian

The scale and beauty of the Western Isles is difficult to convey let alone take in. We left the Crinian basin gasping at the splendour that lay before us, A watery maze of islands, rugged, unblemished, beneath a vast sky, a combination of soft greens made softer when sittting aside the harsh jagged rock. In the sky gannets, fulmars, gulls and cormorants fly. We left quietly, soon hoisting our sails so not to disturb the serenity. I said a small thank you for the priviledge of being able to see what lay before me.

We made way southwest to Jura, our goal the distillery at Craighouse. It was wet but even the rain didn't dampen our enthusiasm, we were on the Whiskey tack. We pulled into Loch na Mile which lies at the Southwest corner of Jura, Craighouse, a tiny village, sits on the southern bank. The island's distillery produces some wonderful single malts, Origin my favorite. A vistor's mooring attached to Rummy, we made a cup of tea but were unable to go ashore as we needed to catch a tide through the Islay Sound if we wanted to make Colonsay that night. The Jura distillery was so close but unreachable.

A collective decision was made to press on through the Islay Sound which divides the north of Islay and the south of Jura. Between island sailing is alway promising. Just as we dropped our line the sun broke through as if to approve our decision to leave. With oillies off, flowers in our hair, sailings flying Rumline flew like a beautiful seabird into the sound. We were feeling the love !

Feeling the Love

Jura

The scale

Colonsay Light house at western exit of sound of Islay

Feeling the love too!



The sailing was amazing, the stuff you read about in the magazines. Rummy was miraculously exceeding her hull speed, it was as if she was magically coming alive as we tacked through the Sound. Castles, mountains distilleries flew past. There was only one thing left to do and that was whoop with joy. A most perfect lighthouse announced our departure from the sound. Onwards and slightly north of west we flew to Colansay. We had a passing glance at Loch Tarbert which is so tempting in it's scenic lure that I will come back to explore.

We arrrived at Colonsay and rafted up alongside a Sigma 33 tied to the very tall ferry pier which the kind harbourmaster had boarded up for visiting yachts. It only accomodates one smallish boat so if you tie up here be prepared to raft up to 6 deep. The poor Sigma owner looked horrified at our arrival but we approached gently and treated both vessels respectfully so he immediately warmed. Scaling a very long ladder to reach the top of the pier we walked to the only watering hole,  The Colonsay Hotel. We had a superb seafood meal, Halibut, oysters, salmon, pollock all locally caught and prefectly fresh and washed down with a wee dram. The island is stark but gorgeous. We had to push sheep out of our way on the dirt track that leads to the hotel. Sheep even lounge amongst the dried out fishermens' boats. We felt transported to a different world and century.  The Whiskey tack was the perfect course.

Colonsay drying harbour

The road to the hotel

very remote and rural

Colonsay Hotel

Cheers to the Whiskey Tack

June 7 It's Only Lock and Roll and We Like It

The day started in a very umpromising way, wet dripping bone soaking wet. the kind of day where you have to force yourself to go outside and do what is required when all you really want to do is hide  under your duvet. Without any enthusiasm we dropped our weighty rainsoaked lines and proceeded down the canal, pushing gates, adjusting lines, opening sluices and running about. Past lock 4, lock 5, lock 6, and soon,  8 more to go. Beautiful but moist, cups of tea didn't help fend off the damp. Then as the scenery began to change from gentle pastoral to a more wild dramatic place. At last the sun broke through.

Rumline and her crew were welcomed into the most beautiful landscape. The beauty numbed the aching muscles tested by the weighty doors. Just when we thought it couldn't get better it did. We questioned why we are so lucky to be here. Although planning to push on to Jura Fate intervened once again and we missed the last lock into the sea and our tardiness was rewarded with a night in Crinian.

Still smiling despite the Rain

Rummy

Scenery starts to change

Crinian Basin

Crinian Basin Lighthouse

View from the Basin

A Puffer to add to the atmosphere

Crinian is beautiful and with open mouthed awed we looked past the picturesque little harbour, a puffer tied to its bank and gazed ouver the water to wild shores. The pics tell it all.
Go to the Crinian Hotel bar for delicious local prawns and a gin and tonic. It's a civilised by quirky place, art lined walls and a artists studio which over looks the bay. A perfect ending to the day which had little promise.

June 5-6 Lady of the Locks

It is so nice to have the long days of summer when sailing. We left Tarbert at 5pm and arrived two hours later at Ardrishaig with plenty of light. Tied up to the waiting pontoon at the entrance to the Crinian Canal's first loch. Tomorrow would be tiring with all the locks to push open, they aren't mechanised just sweat and grunt. In a moment of collective inspiration we thought just a wee dram at the local pub would allow us to experience the local community, it was a cultural exercise.
Ardrishaig is a three pub town all neatly lined up within stumbling distance to each other. We started at the furthest, a sensible navigational  decision. We met some really friendly locals a young engaged couple and three young fishermen. The wee dram turned into a pub crawl with our new found friends. We stayed playing pool, laughing and drinking in The Lorne until the landlady kicked us out at midnight. New friends in tow we somehow managed to descend the the very tall harbour wall ladder to Rumline. We continued the party with our fishermen until sense prevailed closer to daybreak than nightfall. It was fun and despite thumping heads the next morning we were glad to have the boys come aboard and were shocked that despite living on the canal all their lives they had never been on a yacht.
We rallied and proceeded to learn the ways of locking in and out from the great grandaughter of Scotlands first woman lock-keeper. She is the true lady of the lock. With the sun shining and sky blue we slowly motored through the beautiful coutryside. We made a record breaking 4 nm run, the slowest we had ever travelled in Rummy. Exhausted we tied up in Cairnbaan and retired for drinks in the warm bar of the Cairnbann Hotel.

Tarbert Harbour

West Tarbert Upper Loch

Our Ardrishaig Mates

Recovery food the morning after Pie Roll with Brroon Sauce

Rumline learns to Lock

Crack Crew

Lady of the Lock

Foredeck Queen

Beatiful Crinian

Got the Hang of this

Lock four

Slowly meandering

Tomorrow 10 locks which will bring us to the Western Isles.

June 4 Bute-iful

In my mis-spelt desciptive way the first word that springs to mind to describe today is WOW.

We dropped the lines and on our journey to Tarbert took the longer scenic route through the Kyles of Bute. It is a narrow stretch of water which seperates Bute from the the Cowal peninsula. It winds through the most beautiful scenery, gorgeous anchorages, interesting windshifts.

Kay at the Helm tiller Queen

Caladh Harbour beautiful

Kay expertly helmed past the Burnt Isles. Check the direction of  bouyage or you could end up on the rocks. Look at a paper chart. Red cans to starboard she negotiated the rocks and islands steering Rumline towards an anchorage which is perfectly beautiful, Caladh Harbour.

We rounded Ardlamont Point and into Lower Loch Fyne. Our entry into Tarbert Harbour was an escort of the most enourmous dolphins I had ever seen. A perfect day. Tarbert Hartbour is pretty and there are plenty of visitors pontoons, showers and shore power. The day was finished off with delicious Loch Fyne oysters and other local seafood on an old barge sailed across the North Sea and now the home of  Cafe Barge.