July 25-31 Across the Great Glen

Out of the salt and into the fresh, Rumline has spent the past week traversing Scotland via the  Caledonian canal. The scenery was gorgeous, the engineering involved in the building of the canal is awesome and the weather was sunny throughout, it is an experience but if I am to be truthful I am a little disappointed. Fort Williams with Ben Nevis looming above was great. The pontoons were overcrowded, the towns too touristy, too many charter river cruisers, over worked lock keepers and long delays. Neptune's staircase was impressive but Fort Augustus was just chaos with boats queue jumping and being handled in a manner that I would like  Rumline to be far from. We hoped to find secluded spots to stop along the way but the lochs shelved deeply and we were unable to drop our hook save a few spots. Why aren't mooring buoys available?
Loch Ness allowed us to anchor away from the charter hires. The one spot in fact the only spot possible due to wind direction was at Dores, It was what we were hoping for throughout. A Little bay, wooded at the edges and clearing to a shingle beach. Great holding for the anchor. A tiny village not far with a super pub, The Dores Inn. We swam ran around in the dinghy and ate delicious lobster for £14. Needless to say we decided to remain a few days, sailing to Urqhart Castle for lunch but returning to anchor at night.
We pressed on to the sea lock towards Inverness.

Loch Linnhe Beginning of the Great Glen

light at Corran Narrows

Fort Williams with Ben Nevis

Neptune's Staircase

gentle waters

Loch Ness

Urqhart Castle

Lots of LOCHS

Dinghy captain

Dores Inn great food

Castles on canals

At last out to sea

East end of Canal

Rumline made it back to salty water as she climbed out of the sea lock. I have to say I was glad to feel the salty air once again.

July 24 Boats Little Boxes of Misery?

Back to Oban to collect the new crew Howard and Charles, Rupes remains. We say goodbye to Ross, who was not only an ace crew member but good fun in his intelligent way. The next week will be a challenge as those coming on board are not very keen to here. Boats being little boxes of misery may  be a saying that comes into play , but I will try my hardest to make it fun.

There is great challenge in living together in confined spaces in sometimes uncomfortable situations. Boats require teamwork, a respect of command structure, consideration, practicallity and mostly flexibility and a large dose of humour. It is often that we must put the feeling of others before our own to rub along. All great life lessons.

Rupes my son has adapted in a way I could only dreamed of. He is suited to life on board and was a valued member of the team, pulling his weight, entertaining us and helping in whatever needed doing. Well done him, I am proud.

Here we go let us see how this week goes. I expect the greatest challenge a skipper faces is pulling together a working crew. this one will be a test.

jULY 16 -21 Malts Cruise

Life on board has been a nautical social whirl combined with some of the most beautiful cruising one could hope for. Iti s fun but exhausting and quite a difference from the unscheduled carefree travelling that has been the sensibility of this adventure. Never-the-less it is fun and recommended. Lots of drinks parties, deserted Loch Barbeques, dances and most appreciated inland walks and tours.

In Loch Moidart we had a improptu whiskey tasting, on Rum history talks and golden eagle walks, distillery tours on Mull and Islay, bus rides around Mull and Islay and all in the companyof like minded sailors. The Western Isles are beautiful and each unique in character. It would take years to visit all the anchorages and lochs that abound. Andrew Bishop and team from WCC did a great job and a huge thank you to Ross , super crew member.

This trip has given me a taste for the area and I know that I would like to return.

Here are some pictures.

Andrew Bishop the Mastermind behind the cruise

Mull Inland

Rupes at the helm

Sunset at Muck

Moody skies

Beautiful Loch Knoydart

Killer Crustaeceans

Pubs with a view

Solitude and quiet

Friend to share it with

Festivity

The Boat

Locals

Inspiration

A new generation

Villages

Relaxation

Distilleries

History

Mountains

Water

Rumline

The Crew

Beaches

July 15-16 Rumline's Rhumbline to Rum

It was a goal to sail Rummy to her namesake Isle, Rum. We make it and despite a weedy poor anchorage, Rumline dug her anchor in with determination and happily sat in the water of Loch Scresort with Belloch Castle overlooking the loch.  It is an unusual island as it is a nature reserve and is not farmed. As a result eagles fly, otters swim, ponies and red deer graze the grasses. It is wild, remote and unspoilt.
The castle is now open to vistors. It is no longer lived in but provides an insight into the eccentric and extravagant lifestlye of a rich Edwardian industrialist. My impression is a hollywood horror film set come mausoleum, very strange but interesting. It also is home to a hostel which provides a bed as well as showers to visitors. There is a great bar where you can spend time playing games, chatting and relaxing with other guests and the local caretakers of the island.

The Loch

View from The Castle

The Glen

Village Mall

Weird interior lots of dead Heads

The Ranger led us on a walk up one of the glens and we spotted a golden eagle soaring above the peaks. We were lucky to see it. In the tiny village hall he later lectured us on the island's delicate balance. It is a special place. We had a delicious Barbeque and one sailor began to play the bagpipes as it poured down with rain and the wind howled. All talk was where each boat was planning to go as the weather is deteriorating and shelter will need to be sought. So bailing out our dinghy on a very wet ride back to the boat our thoughts began to focus on leaving and where to go next?

13 July Eigged on to Muck

We have been blessed with incredible weather, sun, warmth and flat water, perfect conditions for venturing out to the Small Isles, the stepping stones to the outer Hebrides. There are four islands, each unique, yet beautiful in their own right. Some are mountainous others more pastoral, but each surrounded by the most crystal clear water. They are wild romantic and unspoilt.

Rumline left Loch Moidart and sailed to Eigg, where we stopped for a couple of hours. As we pulled into the harbour, we saw cows splashing in the water and sunbathing on the beach. If I am reincarnated as a cow my first choice will be to be an Indian Cow short of that a cow from Eigg will be fine. We waved goodbye to the cows and pushed on to Muck. On the north coast we found a perfect anchorage. White sandy beaches with emerald green fields behind. In the clear blue sky with sun shining the boys went for a swim not far from the seals who were also swimming playfully. Sublime. A walk across the island on the single dirt track used mainly by the cows we reached Port Mor, the main but still tiny harbour. The shop is always open but unmanned, a box is left and honesty still exists. That evening with a dram in hand we toasted the technicolour sunset and said thank you.

July 11-12 Arnamurchan and Skye

I can't describe the satisfaction I felt rounding Ardnamurchan today. Three years ago I boarded a yacht and decided to learn to sail, green but keen. I worked hard and tried to sail as many boats as I could, I trained and I sailed thousands and thousands of miles. I bought a beautiful little boat and learned how to care of her. Today a dream came true.

This morning after a very sociable time in Mull, we sailed out of the sound  and turned north towards Skye. To see the towering outline on the Isles is a dream I have dreamed so many times. We hugged the coast and passed Ardnamurchan, a place whose name I heard spoken so many times when listening to the Shipping forecast. At last I am able to sail past it, tipping my cap to the famous light.

On our way north the beauty of the scenery is matched by the richness of life these waters hold. Rafts of Manx shearwaters, guillemots, seals, fish were seen.

Rupes takes charge of the helm

Ardnamurchan

Moidart

Ruins to explore

Beautiful anchorage

Impromptu tasting

The loch

We entered the rocky labrynth that guards the entrance to Loch Moidart passing colonies of common seal lazing on the rocks. Inching our way carefully between the rocks we arrived at the middle part of the loch with its central island. It is beautiful beyond words. on the edge of the southern side a ruined castle stands sentinal. Anchor dropped we pumped up the dinghy and went exploring. We met a few cruise entrants and had an impromptu whiskey tasting on a beach beneath the castle which Rupes explored. Bliss.