Thursday 4 August 2011

August 3- 4 Orcadian Wanderings

The wind has been southerly and the sea and coast shrouded in fog and rain. Ghastly for anyone going south. The solution was found in staying tied up to the pontoon in Inverness, driving north until the land ran-out, hopping on a boat (let someone else drive for a change), and explore the the Orkney Isles. The shrouding mist could only add liquid atmosphere to these mythical islands which I always wanted to visit.. The ferry ride was fun and I was allowed on the bridge, it was really high above the water and I now know how difficult it is to see a small yacht near the bow.
I arrived in Stromness (pronounced strumniss) and drove directly in the pouring rain to Skara Brae a 5000 year old settlement on the north easter coast of the main island. It was incredible to see stone furniture, beds and shelves still standing after so long. It was like a Flinstones comic come to life. Even in the horrid weather it was worth seeing. I then drove to standing stones, circles passing some amazing scenery made rather eerie by the fog. My Band B was a charming mill house in the middle of nowhere, perfect. I could sleep as running water echoed in the room. That evening I went to a local house which hosts traditional fireside storytelling and music. By a peat fire I heard of the Finnmen, the Silkie maidens and of mythical sea islands that appear and disappear. All the stories centered on the sea as the people of Orkney relied on the water to provide for their lives. I was entranced and will drop a piece of silver for the finmen next time Rummy leaves the harbour to ensure no mischief befalls us. The drive back past the stone circles and the thick fog that rose around the water was rather creepy, I was glad not to breakdown.
The next morning the story teller of the previous evening met me in the tiny town to tell me about Stromness' nautical past. I won't bore you but it is a rich history and the town provided a large percentage of the seafarers who signed on to the Hudson bay company the rest hunted whales. It is an interesting place and I was invited to sail a local yole but sadly would not be there the evening they sail.
The next day was spent driving around the island, stopping frequently as the natural beauty would halt me in my tracks.
Hoy approach to the Island

Skara Brae

The rain stops for a few moments

Skara Brae

White sand beaches where the silkies bathe

Standing stones

Stromness and its windy streets

The Harbour is safe and snug

I am sure it is beautiful but this is all I saw

Why do we do this to our special landmarks?

I returned on the ferry hoping to see some of the east coast of main land Scotland but the fog was even thicker so I can only Imagine what it looks like. All I saw was John O Groats whose development can only be described as beyond hideous. Why do the British take beautiful places and put fun fairs, tat and the most awful type of tourist attractions?

No comments:

Post a Comment