Sunday, 29 May 2011

28th May Blowing Old Boots

Wild weather welcomes us to Scotland. We left Campbeltown in a near gale to sail up the Kilbrannan Sound north to Loch Ranza on Arran. It started out okay, windy but we like wind so not an issue. As we entered the sound a jaunty fishing boat was steaming full throttle towards port, full entourage of seagulls flying behind squacking in their demanding me me me way. It was 5 minutes later that we realised why he steaming by at such speed. The driving rain came obliterating the view of both Arran and the Kintyre penninsula. Rumline felt like sailing an open boat but she is so steady in blow. Later we would consult the cruising guide to see what we missed, it apparently is beautiful. I will have to take the Clyde Cruising Clubs word. We approached Loch Ranza and the rain relented for a time allowing us to pick up one of the very handy moorings for visitors. Very much appreciated as another gale was forecast and the holding is less than secure. So for a wee time we luxuriated in the evening light which bathed the glen, and we were the sole visitor. A more picturesque anchorage would be difficult to find, with the ruined castle standing in a spit in the middle of the loch only feet from the moorings, fishermen's cottages replete with rhododendrums in full extravagant bloom and the glen and mountains. Even a puffin flew by. Of course this glory was short lived as the heavens opened once again and the winds began to howl. No dinghy trip to shore tonight. At least we were secure and only merely damp. Pity as Arran is steeped in history and wildlife and would have been lovely to explore. A warm supper and a wee dram from the delicious bottle of Springbank malt bought at the Distillery in Campbeltown made it all right and helped aleviate the disappointment.

We woke up and guess what? Yes it was a full blooded blow again. A full English and several Para Handy stories later we decided to make a run for Largs, where we could have the comforts of a shower, shorepower, and walk on and off  pontoon. We dropped the mooring and I soon questioned my decision. The wind funneled down the glen like a sledge hammer so staying was hugely uncomfortable and poor Rumline danced around the bouy like a demented bear. No one was happy and I completely trust her in high wind so I chose to leave with the tiniest scrap of genoa. She bolted out of the loch like a race horse at the starting line. With a following sea on her quarter she was happy and joyfully surfed the waves in 45 Knots of wind. We felt safe in her cockpit and she was easily managed. It was exhilerating. We saw one other yacht who was struggling in the high conditions, the poor boat was skittish and dancing out of control not a happy boat. I thank Jeremy Rogers for designing the Contessa 32 ,such an utterly amazing boat, beautiful, safe and forgiving. In no time we flew to the Kyle of Bute, through the Cumbrae Pass between Little Cumbrae and Big Cumbrae, up the Largs channel and towards the marina approach. I was horrified to see such a narrow entry in these conditions but I trusted Rumline to hold her course. The scrap of Genoa was furled and for a moment we were sailing at nearly 5 knots under bare poles. The engine on  and a prayer said we entered through the rock jettys completely in control. Thank you once again Neptune and Rummy. Safely tied up, and enough adrenaline to last a week, we tidied up Rumline and ran for the warmth of the showers. Guess what it is still blowing old boots and as Para Handy would say the showers were 'Chust, Sublime'.

Campbeltown before the rain

The Light house on Island Daavar approach to the Harbour

Fishing boat hot-footing it to Harbour

All we saw before the rain and wind came howling

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