May12 Avalon Awaits

When I read the pilot books I find they frighten the socks off me. I am always daunted by the directions and feel that doom and death upon some rock awaits or at best I will miss a crucial transit and ground upon some nasty sandbank. Fortunately I am usually surprised to find that passages and entries into harbours are more straight forward than I read and thus expect. Caution and preparation is essential but please don't be put off by what sounds difficult, because difficult places are often the most rewarding.
Today I found such a place, Lundy Island. A lump of solid granite rising 700m from the seabed surrounded by ferocious races and fearsome tides. It is a sentinal and a fortress,at the entrance to the Bristol Channel. There is only one anchorage suitable for overnighting. My advice is enter Landing bay at slack water when the races lie dormant for a short while. It is like sneaking past a sleeping guard dog.
Its position and fortress qualities were not lost on the pirates who made it their home and staging post in the island's past history. Over 135 wrecks surround the island. The Maricso family set their base here until Henry II captured the patriarch and and hauled him to the Tower of London where he was hung drawn and quartered. A castle was erected by the King to regain control of the Bristol channel.
Prior to this early Christians erected stones memorials and the island is mentioned in Arthurian legend as Avalon.
In the mid 1920's Martin Coles Harman purchased the island. A keen naturalist he introduced soay sheep and sika deer and ensured the rich abundance of birdlife thrived. Upon his death the island was bequeathed to the National Trust and the rich variety of wildlife is now protected and the waters surrounding the island are Britain's first marine preserve, whales,orcas, dolphins and basking sharks are regularly spotted.
I moored Rumline in the beautiful anchorage in a sheltered bay on the southeast corner of the island. Warmed by the gulfstream the sealife that surrounded us was thriving. Grey seals swam around the boat curiously peering with their winesome doglike faces. In the sky gannets, shearwtaers, razorbills, cormorrants,peregrines and gulls flew in acrobatic overhead. A dinghy is essential as no yacht services are available but this maintains the unspoilt atmosphere of the place.
On shore the island is 3 miles long and 1/2 mile wide and small walkers paths cirle and crisscross the soft springy carpetlike ground which during my stay was covered in flowers. We saw deer, wild goats, ponies, sheep, rabbits all running wild. Birds flew overhead and we passed lighthouses, old relic stones, and walked on the clifftops whose sculpted granite faces tumbled down to the sea which teams with life.

Rumline

Lundy Lighthouse

Jenny's Cove

Wild Goats

Dolphin escort

Twenty-six people live on the island and in the tiny village a small shop sells local produce and postcards. There is a small museum and an excellent tavern which serves delicious food, much of it home grown and a great pint of Lundy ale. One can relax in a friendly atmosphere and there are stacks of books and games to keep  you entertained. No mobile phones! Bring a flashlight for the steep walk back to the landing.
I was sad to leave and after the mooring was regretfully dropped and the boat sailed northwards along the shore a pod of no fewer than twenty dolphins including very young ones escorted towards the channel.
Pure magic. FAREWELL AVALON.