Monday 16 May 2011

May 15th Say a Little Prayer to Neptune

A weather window presented itself and like an 80% reduction on tenders I grabbed the opportunity and ran. Neyland did deserve more time and its yachties tried to disuade departure with doom laden advice such as never ever ever attempt Jack and Ramsey Sound unless the conditions are perfect, which occur only about twice a year if the tides are in sync. But northward we were determined to go so charts were studied, lines were dropped, and a small prayer was offered to neptune and the winds gods for a safe passage for both Rumline and her crew.
Past the refineries and tankers,out past Dale roads, we approached St Ann's Head to starboard at LW inorder to reach the sounds at slacktide A tiny little Hunter 27 followed but bailed out of the inner route at the last moment leaving us the lone boat to go through.  I questioned the decision when abeam Vomit Point (I kid you not) but then thought no way, you're prepared, stop being a coward, just go. Blackstone Rock passed and the moment came when we were totally committed. Rumline, my brave little trooper of a boat, didn't flinch for one moment. The tide strengthened and swirled but she just dug in and held her ground and course. It was a wild rollercaster ride past horrible rocks and wild bubbling water full a eddies and a tide which runs at 7 kts. We flew through at over 11kts and were spat out the other end, hardly having time to think about what happened. My advice, be prepared if you want to run the gauntlet because there is no time to think just to react. Not a place for the fainthearted but satisfying once out the otherside.
As a reward for new found bravery a small detour to the bay at Skommer Island was in order. What a surprise and treat. It is described as a bird haven but never did I expect to be greeted by Puffins in the thousands; flying puffins, floating puffins sitting puffins. Puffins everywhere.We had to duck as they missed Rummy's mast by millimeters. You can not help but smile when you see Puffins they are so comical with their orange parrotlike beaks and matching orange feet and tiny penguin-like bodies. They are funny too and clumsy . One landed and fell head over heals, I nearly wet myself with laughter. Others nearly collided midair. Amusing and charming but probably not too bright in the bird pecking order. They are easily caught and in the past islanders used them as little avian oillamps because their oilly bodies would burn for hours. Poor little Puffins I am glad this practise has fallen from fashion.
What a treat, especially after only seeing a puffin fridge magnet on Puffin Island. I no longer feel  puffin deprived. I expect Puffins are like London buses : not one in sight but when they do arrive ten come at once.
Next hairy passage Ramsey sound.  So Rummy unfurled her wings and we glided out the bay under the quiet of sail.
Although wider and less rocky Ramsey  is a formidable piece of water. The Bitches, those nasty rocky whores, who preside over this devil'scauldron of water welcomed us. Once in it is like riding a speeding train whose brakes have failed, SOG 11.8kts. Not only do you need to deal with the uncontrollable speed but you must stay away from the counter current or you will be spun 180 degrees. Again be careful and do the nav beforehand with a clear head. Spat out yet again, we are in Cardigan Bay which requires two caridgans worn as I am so cold. We have had a miraculous 11 hours of fair tide ( arrive St Anns LW Milford) and we are making progress ahead of time expected. The wind also is on our side backing every turn to remain at the best possible angle. How often does this happen? A beam reach when through the Sound and now late and tired a comfortable broadreach across Cardigan Bay, the day was meant to be solid NW winds.
The sun is melting in an orange ball into the beautiful water. Corny I know but thats what it looks like.
St Ann's Head

Jack Sound's bubbly water


Out the otherside water calm

It was a blur

sunset in Cardigan Bay

I think this moment requires another little thank you to the winds and the sea and to Rumline for answering this mornings prayer and for allowing us such an exciting and perfect passage.

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