May20-22 A Soft Day

The Irish describe a rainy day as a soft day and  the weather has been as soft as possible, in fact continually soft.
Rumline arrived safely across the Irish Sea to the well serviced port of Bangor at the mouth of Belfast Lough. We needed showers, refueling, access to water and a creamy pint of Irish Guiness. Typical of most sailors the refueling, showers and water were ignored and as  soon as lines were made secure and boat in order we made straight for the pub.
Irish pubs are legendary and not just watering holes but community centers and the hub of village life. We started at Fealty's a spit and sawdust type pub with friendly atmosphere and the best pint in Bangor. The first sip was nectar. A few more establishments were sampled until we found Cory's across the road which not only served a good pint but had great live music too. By coincidence we met our berth neighbours three Irish men on a weekend away from from domestic life. We joined them and a raucous night of fun followed. We toasted the dawn, pledged undying friendship and then promptly collapsed into that unique comatose sleep that hard drinking provides.
Six hours later with aching heads we hauled ourselves out of our bunks. No sailing today, soft weather but heavy seas which must be respected in the North Channel. Another opportunity provided by the wind gods. Car was thus hired and an executive decision made to explore the North Antrim Coast by land, but not before a small detour south to Grace Neills in Donaghadee, Ireland's oldest pub for a delicious lunch.
We drove north along the A2 a senic coastal road which is a winding ribbon of motorway dividing the moor topped cliffs and the sea, We drove through dramatic scenery made more dramatic by wind and driving rain until we reached the Giant's Causeway. It was wet and nearly dark but  it had to be seen.
The Giants Causeway is a geological wonder. Geometric rock pillars all packed together like three dimensional crazy paving. The edges look cut and it is difficult to imagine random forces producing such even pattern. Apparently volcanic erruption occurred and the molten stone stone dried and cracked into patterns like mud flats, errosion caused the height differential. For me the legend is more evocative. A Giant called Finn built this causeway in order to reach and fight a Scottish giant. In the mist and waves it is a more satisfying explanation. Myth and magic seem better suited here on a day like this.

A Soft Day

Pretending to be Giant

gorgeous but wet

North Antrim Coast

Glens

The light faded and we made our way through the Glens of Glenariff in search of more natural beauty and traditional music. In the golden light, passing endless green rolling hills, silver streams and rock walls which held the secrets of the glens we found the Skerry Inn. When we entered conversation paused for a moment, a cue to tread softly but after a pint smiles were given. No music but we spoke to a local man who lays dry stone walls and confirmed by  his weathered face and gnarled hands we learnt that life in this beautifulplace where the weather is often soft is in fact very hard.